Wales Trip Day 6: Porthmadog, Caernarfonshire
Before leaving the UK we intend to do a fair amount of sightseeing. This is an account of a week we recently spent travelling in Wales. Its not a live-blog, but I noted a few observations each day so that the posts read a little as if I had had a computer with me. (And its not as if anyone reading this cares where I actually am sitting when I post this!)The remainder of our time in Wales, we stayed at Tyddyn Iolyn farmhouse which is a bed and breakfast with the farm outbuildings converted into ensuite bedrooms. The farm lies well up from the main road along a gravel path, that our car was not too keen on. The setting was magnificent - with views across to Harlech, up into Snowdonia and down to the sea. It was also quiet: apart from the occasional car of another guest or some farm equipment all you could hear were sheep. [Apart from the occasional buzzing by the RAF who like to train their pilots on low altitude flying all over North Wales]. Our room was nice, the cast iron bath lovely and the owners were friendly: again a recommendation. It is a testament to my wife's internet skills that everywhere we stayed on the trip was nice and memorable, because she organised it all in an afternoon.
After breakfast, we went into Porthmadog. Our original intention was to just stop there for some supplies and then head on to Portmeirion. The weather forecast predicted that it would rain and that the next day would be sunny so we changed plans and explored Porthmadog.
The town was founded in the early 19th Century by the local MP who acquired the necessary permission to build a dock and redirect the course of the estuary. The town was sited here to exploit the slate and copper mines in the mountains - indeed it hosts two of Wales' old steam railways which now carry tourists where once they carried the mines' products: the Blaenau Ffestiniog Railway and the Welsh Highland Railway.
During the 19th Century Porthmadog hosted a small but thriving shipbuilding industry which specialised in turning out two or three masted barques and brigs. These vessels would spend 9 months at sea, with an 8 or 10 man crew - plying a number of well trodden routes back and forth across Northern Europe and the Atlantic.
Most of the ships were locally owned, divided up into shares which members of the community subscribed to in varying numbers according to how much they had to invest. The locals also ran their own insurance firm to keep the cost of premiums down, which at its peak held the equivalent of several billion pounds of shipping on its books. I know that some lefties would see this as a sign of the Welsh people's natural affinity for socialism, but I prefer to look at it as proof that communities can take care of themselves without government doing it for them.
The town sports a small maritime museum, which is well worth a visit.
We left Porthmadog by a backroad because of congestion - in the afternoon the combination of badly timed traffic lights and a single main road through town leads to gridlock. We were searching for a supermarket (at this point we didn't realise that there was one in Porthmadog, but on the other side of town to the direction we went!).
After a seemingly endless jaunt through roads that gradually became narrower and narrower (I lost count of the number of times we expected to round a bend and find a gate marked 'Private') we made it back to the main road near the farmhouse we were staying at. We headed off from there to Criccieth, but found no large shops so kept on going. The next town was Pwllheli, and here we found a Co-op and were able to get provisions and turn round. I like to be positive about the places we visit and the people there but I am afraid that Pwllheli was the one of the most miserable and run-down places I have ever seen. I think we saw more examples of trashy behaviour by the ill-bred in the hour or so we were there than in the rest of our trip to Wales. Perhaps it is a class thing, and perhaps it was amplified by the contrast with decorous middle class Criccieth next door, but if I never have to go back to Pwllheli it will be too soon.
To be continued...
posted by j @ 7:13 AM
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